After my first session back at the bouldering gym it took a gruelling four days of stretching tight forearms and ab's until I felt loose enough to go back for a second bash. This time making more effort to warm up properly and after getting some mileage in with some long juggy traverses I found myself sat at the bottom of a problem which I only just flailed up a few days before. I seemed to be more centred and relaxed and took a moment to actually LOOK at the holds and their positions. I've always just jumped on problems in the past and never really taken the time to just find all the holds and try to be as efficient as possible. You see, I've always had more power than technique when it comes to climbing but right now I have very little..so technique is my biggest friend. So here I am... feet out, left hand up to pinch,right hand undercut and then I just seemed to breeze through the roof, move after move, heel up high...im rocking over and it's done! There was no cutting loose, no weakening forearms just bish bash bosh! Now, it's by no means a personal best or the hardest problem in the gym but it was a firm reminder that muscle memory is there, that in reality it won't take that long to get it back and that's an exciting prospect after a huge break and paranoid thoughts of not being able to get back to where I was.
Time away or injury can be the most frustrating thing when all you want to do is get out there, you see logbooks and photo's of friends sending their projects and making the most of conditions and it's hard but it's also a great way to reflect and ready yourself for the comeback. I have a good friend, a talented fellow who's recently found himself with a cast on his ankle days before departure for trips that I know he'll have been trembling with excitement for weeks now. Fortunately for him, he's able to find the light at the end of any tunnel but I believe that as frustrating as these set backs may be.. the time can be used positively? You may well disagree with me Mikey? either way I hope you have a speedy recovery boyo!
Anywho, this post is more of a diary entry than an exciting story about my adventures, and I apologise if it's bored anyone but one my main aims of this blog was to document moments which mattered to me.
Reeet, I now have 8 days of work left and 13 days until I fly into America, so it's train train train time! Here's a recent video from back home that's given me some inspiration to hit the grit when I return.
When E7 is V7 from Climblox.com on Vimeo.
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