Friday 6 May 2011

The Buttermilks...

Since the last post we've got ourselves sorted, we've managed to have a few days here and there and got a general grasp as to where is good when it's hot (most of the time), where the morning shade can be found , the afternoon shade etc.  The shopping list and shop runs are down and we seem to be consuming crazy amounts of raisins, water and ritz biscuits! and with the availability of Wi-Fi and time to Blog (rest days) the content of these posts is coming with a day or two's delay, so we've seen, done and experienced more, you'll just have to wait :) 

Next Step was The Buttermilks.  Huge blocs of granite crown the hillside with generally stellar landings.  The only issue again was the fact that we have one pad and the majority of the problems are as high as they look in the DVD's.  We arrived early to make the most of temps and opened the guide to look for some high rated problems to warm up on.  There's pretty much at least one 3star problem on every bloc, and there are a fair few blocs!  After a couple of warm up problems we stumble across 'Sheepherder' a highball V2 which has 'rite of passage' in it's description and it really lived up to the description.  Insecure smeary climbing with a rounded top out.... we were definitely warm after that! The day unfolded and we enjoyed sharp crimpy granite climbing all day, it's an amazing place which eats your skin and get's your heart pumping.  It's a definite must for anyone who heads into California to climb.  It doesn't matter how hard you climb, there's plenty to go at for all grades and a few Bacher problems which are sure to puzzle and confuse you!  Maybe try and take more than one pad though :)  

The infamous sign

The pea body blocs....the picture doesn't it justice
Iron Man

Slingshot

King Tut

Buttermilk Stem, Amazing!

I have to apologise for the lack of writing, I'm sat in Starbucks, two coffee's down with no breakfast, it's taken me ages to just do this! and I can't concentrate or sit still...ergh.





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